Severely Neglected Wheel Restoration

author Really Random Channel   7 мес. назад

127,330 Like   12,265 Dislike

Motorcycle Fuel Tank Restoration ( Honda TL125 70's)

This restoration WAS supposed to be 10mins long but the project is so full of cool steps and details i couldn't leave them out. So i hope you'll sit back relax and enjoy another Really Random Restoration from me :) This weeks restoration is of a late 70's Honda TL125 tank. A proper little vintage gem. As you can see the tank is very battered and bruised it is full of dents filler and rust but nothing we cant sort out on this channel. First step was the unboxing which i tried to make as fun as possible haha. Next up was to start some serious work. Yet again DEOX C came in very handy for removing all of the rust and gunk from inside the tank. Once this was done all tank openings were left sealed to prevent any crap building up inside again. Then it was off to the blasting cabinet to remove all traces of rust and paint. halfway through i had to stop and grind most of the filler out as i didnt want to put too much stress on the compressor and ruin my blast media with lots of unwanted body filler. After blasting it was very clear to see i had waaay underestimated how bad the tank really was. it was rippled and just crazy bent up but after a few hours with PDR rods, the knock down tool and a coffee it was back in reasonable shape and able to be body worked. The next stage was to etch prime the tank so that i could leave it overnight without the fear of any moisture in the air starting to rust the tank. Next day i started to fill the dents and get it straight and true again this took hours to complete and there were so many lines that has to be addressed. Its actually one of the worst tanks ive had to deal with. But after this stage the tank was completely straight so straight id have been happy to paint it gloss black just to prove it ;). but anyway.... Onto the high build primer and wet flatting stages now to remove any last pits from the surface and we are all good for the first layer of paint. After the initial layer of paint its back to the bench for some serious time measuring and marking out the placement of logos and paint lines.( Ive sped this section up considerably for you guys as. ) After marking out and masking up it was back into the booth for the painting of the red and black sections. Once dry all the masking was peeled off and the Honda badges were offered up to there precise position on the tank. Then multiple coats of clear were applied to finish the job. once The paint has aged for around a week and been fitted back onto the bike i will be flatting the clear down and buffing back to a glass like finish. I know this video is a bit on the lengthy side but i tried to cut it down as much as possible without losing any important stages or processes. If you like what you see and have any ideas for the channel or would even like to donate something to restore to the channel please get in touch. :) And as usual if you liked the video please like share and subscribe and help the channel grow. Really Random Channel

How to SUPER CLEAN your Engine Bay

Engine bay detailing. Learn how to Super Clean your engine bay so that it is so clean, you can eat off of it! I show you how to clean and detail the engine bay in a simple 5 step process that will NOT damage your engine or electrics! Cleaning Wipes (Tub-O-Towels): Soapy Wooder: Microfiber Towels: Brushes: Trim Restorer: Spray Wax: Pipe Cleaners: Fabric Dye: Metal Wire Brush: Rotary Tool: Paint Markers: How to SuperClean your Car: How to SuperClean your Windshield: How to SuperFlush your Cooling System: → Become a ChrisFix Subscriber: → Instagram: → Facebook: → Website: → My Channel Home Page: **If the video was helpful, remember to give it a "thumbs up" and consider subscribing. New videos every Week** Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix. This video was supported by Federal Process Corporation and all opinions are truthfully my own. I use their stuff all of the time when cleaning my engine bays which made it a great fit for the video!

Junkyard 1956 Buick Hack! - Roadkill Ep. 53

People love it when we rescue old cars from the junkyard. We'll see what happens when they see this episode of Roadkill presented by Dodge, during which we literally hack a '56 Buick Century out of a thorn bush it’s been sitting in for 25 years, then continue slashing as we attempt to mount the body on a '73 Corvette chassis. Oh yeah, we hacked up that car, too. Watch for more Sawzalls, weed whacking, and plasma cutting per minute than any other episode of Roadkill. Roadkill on the MOTOR TREND channel. Subscribe now to make sure you're in on all the action! Facebook -, & Twitter - & Google + - Website - & Roadkill Shop -

Dangerous Biggest Crankshaft Forging Process in Metal Heavyweight Forging Factory Germany, US, China

[HYPNOTIC Video] Dangerous Biggest Heavy Crankshaft Forging Process and Hot Wound Springs Manufacturing for Sub-sea Oil and Gas. Discover Heavyweight Metals Forging & Manufacturing Factory in US, Germany, China, India, Canada and Mexico. #SpringForging, #CrankshaftForging ----------------------------------------------------- Thank You For Watching - I Hope You Enjoy - Don't Forget To: Comment, Like & Share Video Subscribe To My Life: - Thank You So Much! ----------------------------------------------------- ○ If you would like to share your video with Modern Creative ○ For Copyright Issues ○ Modern Creative will check your mail daily and get back to you as soon as possible. ------------------------------------ 👩‍🚒 Subscribe To My Life: 👩‍🚒 Website: 👩‍🚒 Facebook: 👩‍🚒 Pinterest: 👩‍🚒 Google+:

Hanya menggunakan ini, ban kempes dapat kamu kendarai sejauh 15 km

WARNING !!! 1. Tutorial diatas hanya untuk memperlambat laju kebocoran ban dalam. 2. Segera tambal atau ganti dengan ban baru jika sudah memungkinkan. Percobaan telah dilakukan sebanyak 3 kali. PERCOBAAN PERTAMA Ukuran ban luar sama dengan ban dalam, paku yg digunakan no.3 [00:18]. Hasilnya jarak yg dapat ditempuh sejauh 10,7km kecepatan ±30-60km/jam PERCOBAAN KEDUA Ukuran ban dalam lebih besar dari pada ban luar, memakai paku no.1 [00:18]. Sepeda motor hanya dapat bergerak sejauh 1,3km sampai roda depan benar² oleng. PERCOBAAN TERAKHIR (video diatas) —Ban dalam = Ban luar —Paku yg dipakai no.1 [00:18] —Jarak tempuh max. 15,4km, waktu tempuh max. 29 menit —Jarak tempuh efektif 10km —Kecepatan rata² 32km (karena dibelakang truk & terkena lampu merah) Video ini tidak berafiliasi dengan produk manapun. Nama, logo, dan merek lain adalah hak milik dari masing-masing pemiliknya. Kami tidak bertanggungjawab atas penyalahgunaan, kerugian materi dan non materi, yang mungkin timbul akibat penggunaan layanan ini. Semoga bermanfaat

Another week another severely neglected and rusty item goes onto the bench to get brought back to life!

This week the item in question is a SEVERELY NEGLECTED MOTORCYCLE WHEEL that has certainly seen better days.

Now before i begin the description i would like to take a moment to say this wheel is NOT going back on the road so please dont flood the comments section saying that i never used new bolts for the brake disc or torqued them down to the required lbs/ft or removed or replaced the bearings etc etc you get the idea.

Also let me know what you think of the editing on this one, ive tried to cut it down and speed up the more boring sections to keep the overall time down as i know lots of you guys wont have a good hour and a half spare to watch a wheel being refurbished at normal speeds. If you think its to fast and choppy please let me know and ill revert to the longer and less choppy cuts.


First thing is first the obligatory before close up and as you can see from it the wheel is in a very poor condition, sitting in a muddy corner for years and spiders living in the centre hub have certainly made a monster out of this once lovely wheel!

The first job on the list was to get in on the tyre machine and get the beads broken to allow the shoe of the machine to lift the tyre off, then while it was clamped in the machine i thought this is a perfect time to remove the brake disc bolts while its clamped down to a solid surface as these bolts can be a right pig to remove if they have been over tightened and flooded with thread locking compound. To my surprise they broke loose fairly easily.

Next on the list was getting it on the workbench and getting it torn down completely first out were the cushions for the drive sprocket (actually in very good condition for the age and the weathering they have been through!) then off the the old valve neck and wheel weights.

The brake disc and bolts were then put in a DEOX C bath while i worked on the rest of the rim.

To clean the surface grime and muck from the rim CONCEPT CHEMICALS MASTER CLEANER was used at a low dilution ration then agitated aggressively with a VIKAN brush after soaking for a few minutes it was time to pressure wash it clean and get a look at what i actually had to play with. It wasn't too bad but definitely did require a lot of attention to get it looking its best again!

Out came the PAINT PANTHER for the next stage which was to remove the old nasty paint to reveal the lovely diamond cut alloy edges and shot peened hub and spokes, Not being a fan of polished metal it was at this point i decided on an all paint finish but at this stage i wasn't sure about colour.

After a bit of wire brushing with the dremel and a good hand sanding it was time to get it masked up and into primer.

First came 2 light coats of U-POL ETCH PRIMER to give the high build primer a solid base to grip onto.The HIGH SOLID HIGH BUILD PRIMER went on in three coats with sufficient time left between coats for maximum build. After that was dry a bit of wet sanding was required mostly in the centre of the wheel to eradicate the shot peening marks so that the rim would have a uniform gloss finish when done. PREPARATION IS THE KEY TO A FANTASTIC FINISH!

For doing the base coat and lacquering it is necessary to make some sort of rig so that you can get at both sides of the wheel instantly, if you only try to paint one side of a wheel and then flip it over to get the other side all you end up with is one side that looks passable and the other that looks shockingly bad! Before i could begin painting it was necessary to do a few touch ups with a little aerosol primer where i had to sand quite far down to get a uniform smooth finish after that was done and dried it was time to spray my colour choice REPSOL ORANGE

After the base and clear was done i took the mad notion to run a single pin stripe round and im glad i did i really like the way the silver pops out from the REPSOL ORANGE.

Then it was simply a case of cleaning up a few bolts and re-assembling the wheel.

If you like what you see and have any ideas for the channel please let me know in the comment section.

And as usual if you liked the video please like subscribe and share this video and help the channel grow.

Really Random Channel.

Comments for video: