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This soap review features the 2016 artisan rookie of the year, L&L Grooming (https://www.landlgrooming.com/) and killer post shave master, Chatillon Lux (https://chatillonlux.com/). Even with the honors of being the best new artisan on the scene in 2016, Scott, from L&L Grooming continued his assault on wet shaver’s wallets by opening Declaration Brushworks (https://www.declarationbrushworks.com/), the premiere U.S. based artisan brush maker who hand ties every knot. L&L Grooming soaps are also available at Maggard Razors. Chatillon Lux is one of, if not the top aftershave artisan in the wet shaving world. Their collaborations are always successful and highly sought after. Bon Vivant is a warm and spicy blend with a crack of sharp citrus. The scent notes feature caramel, birch tar, black pepper, maple syrup, vanilla, patchouli, neroli, petitgrain, yuzu citrus, ginger, anise, juniper berry, white grapefruit, wormwood and coriander. What does all this boil down to? For me it opens with herbaceous citrus and some black pepper before the sweetness of the maple syrup and caramel enter the fold. At its base, it fades back to earthy where the patchouli, juniper berry and petitgrain present themselves. Scent is mid-strong both off the container and through the shave. Similar scents on the market include; Mickey Lee Soapworks Unforgiven or Phoenix & Beau Sanskrit. L&L Grooming’s Bison tallow soap base is among the very best performing soap bases on the market. Some have trouble dialing in the lather because it simply loves to be drowned with water. The results when dialed in though stand in the rare air of greatness though. Above average in all metrics. "Yogurty" dense cushion, hella slickness and residual slickness and spa like moisturizing post shave is what you can expect. With an ingredients like this (Stearic Acid, Water, Potassium Hydroxide, Avocado Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Bison Tallow, Mango Seed Butter, Castor Oil, Fragrance, Sodium Hydroxide, Lanolin, Bentonite Clay, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Extract, Salix Alba L. (White Willow) Bark Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid,) its no wonder. Similar soap bases in terms of performance are: Mickey Lee Soapworks and Tallow + Steel. Get at me here: Email: email@example.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/rudshones/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dendj55/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Oaken Lab (OAKENLAB.COM) is a brand new artisan soap maker based out of Jakarta, Indonesia. Oaken means "made of oak". The oak tree symbolizes: Integrity, Strength and spirituality, and that it has similar meanings in many cultures all over the world. “Lab” refers to recreating the artisans travel experiences through scent in their lab. The owner is an American, based in Jakarta that began making soap in order to fill the need for a high quality shaving soap. Soaps available in the area and restriction on personal use importation drove this need. What started as a hobby has now become a small business venture that will aim to serve this underserved market. The artisan has hopes to expand from selling through some barber shops/retailers in Bali and Singapore, to expanding to other countries in the region. There is also plans to talk with resellers in Australia and the US. Stay tuned for the website launch in early October and follow Oaken Lab on Instagram (@oakenlab). Earth of Mankind “is based on Java in the dutch era, which you still see glimpses of today. It has a rich base of vanilla, and agarwood (oud), mixed with spices that were highly coveted and mystical. It’s all wrapped in a smoky kretek (clove cigarette) haze.” This scent is mysterious and mesmerizing. Notes are listed as: Agarwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Clove, Cassia, Tobacco and Vanilla. My nose is initially met with the richness of vanilla before being met by the spices and smoky spice of the kretek. This scent sits nicely on it’s oud backbone. Scent strength is mid-strong out of the container and remains mid-strong lathered up. While quite unique, scents with some similarity from wet shaving are; Chatillon Lux Unconditional Surrender and Declaration Grooming Darkfall. Oaken Lab’s soap base is a tallow soap base featuring: Stearic Acid, Aqua, Tallow (Beef), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycerol, Potassium Hydroxide, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Fragrance, Vitis Vinifera (Grapeseed) Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa Butter), Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide and Lanolin. The soap base meets ASEAN standards. The soap is of mid firmness and quickly loads into any type brush you decide to use. The lather is on the thirstier side and when properly dialed in resembles sour cream. The slickness of this soap is excellent. Primary slickness and residual slickness both excel at ensuring glide. The post shave is also excellent. Having used this soap base on three occasion, I even opted to forgo a post shave product with my last use because it is that nice. Oaken Lab’s soap base receives a shavescore of 90. Soap bases with a similar performance experience for me are Tallow + Steel and The Sudsy Soapery. Get at me here: Email: firstname.lastname@example.org YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Ruds-Shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Check it out at Razor Emporium (http://www.razoremporium.com/) 100% Made in USA 316L Stainless Steel, Brushed finish Infinitely Adjustable Shave Individually Serial Numbered Date Code in-line with Gillette system Length: 3.5" 87mm Weight: 3.5oz 100g Get at me here: Email: email@example.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/rudshones/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dendj55/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Phoenix Artisan Accouterments (https://phoenixartisanaccoutrements.com/) is an artisan soap maker based out of Casa Grande, AZ. The artisan has a strong following within the wet shaving hobbyist community, although it also has a large group of detractors based on a lengthy history of bad business. As always, it’s best to do your own research into these topics before making any decisions. The artisan has been making soap and accouterments since 2013. Gondolier aims to evoke the thought of old world Italy. Scent notes feature: Bergamot, Rose, Jasmine, Oakmoss, Coumarin, Citronella, Juniper & Cedar. The resulting accord is masculine and sophisticated. I am not able to pick out individual scent notes, but get the vibe of the earthtones to start before the fruit and florals round the scent out into a cologne style accord. I find the scent to be versatile in terms of wearing occasion. Scent strength is mid-strong out of the container and remains mid-strong once lathered. Similar scents from wet shaving are: Cold River Soap Works Bois Floraux and Ariana & Evans Chasing the Dragon. PAA employs a vegan soap base and has since it’s beginnings. Ingredients are listed as: Potassium Stearate, Glycerin, Aqua, Potassium Kokumate, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Shea Butterate, Potassium Castorate, Sodium Stearate, Potassium Cocoa Butterate, Potassium Avocadoate and Parfum. The soap base is soft to mid and loads exceptionally easy into any type brush fiber. The soap base is of average thirst and once hydrated, the resulting lather is voluminous like whipped cream. The slickness of the soap is good, both primary slickness and residual slickness. The post shave is average. It provides some skin nourishing properties but I don’t feel like I could skip a post shave product. Given the performance of this soap base, the shavescore assigned is an 85. Soaps bases that perform similar in my experience are: Blackship Grooming and Dr. Jon’s. Get at me here: Email: firstname.lastname@example.org YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Ruds-Shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Chatillon Lux (https://chatillonlux.com/) has teamed with Storybook Soapworks (https://storybooksoapworks.com/) to release a soap in the same scent as the recently released line of aftershave products, La Forêt de Liguest. This dynamic duo is also offering free shipping via a promo code received in email form from Storybook Soapworks once you’ve ordered the soap. The promo code entitles you to free shipping of a matching aftershave splash, toner or salve from Chatillon Lux.
La Forêt de Liguest is a fougere scent, billed as darker than Chatillon Lux’s TSM fougere. The scent is very complex and features notes of: cypress, juniper, coriander, atlas cedar, rose, tuberose, geranium, bergamot, vanilla, vetiver, benzoin, cedarwood, patchouli, musk, oakmoss and grapefruit. This is a deep fougere indeed. I am immediately met by the juniper and cypress, before the earthtones of cedarwood, oakmoss and vetiver join the fray. The florals and citrus round out this scent niceley and help to deliver on the promise of a darker fougere. The scent is mid-strong both off the puck and once lathered. Similar scents in the market are: The Los Angeles Shaving Soap Company Topanga Fougère or Ginger's Garden Fougère Fern.
Performance on Storybook Soapworks is very favorable, considering the company’s fledgling status. The soap is soft, so overloading can be an issue if you aren’t paying attention. It loads easily into the brush and enjoys water, this soap is thirsty. The resulting lather, from a properly hydrated soap is both cushiony and slick. This soap has no problems playing in the current artisan space. The post shave is also on par with soaps that we all know and use. This is likely due to the nice list of ingredients used; Stearic Acid, Water, Beef Tallow, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Fragrance, Shea Butter, Vegetable Glycerin, Rice Bran Oil, Avocado Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol. To find a soap that performs similarly, I’d suggest checking out Bufflehead Soap Co. or Turtleship Shave Co.
Check out Turn.N.Shave here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/TurnNShave
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