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This soap review features the 2016 artisan rookie of the year, L&L Grooming (https://www.landlgrooming.com/) and killer post shave master, Chatillon Lux (https://chatillonlux.com/). Even with the honors of being the best new artisan on the scene in 2016, Scott, from L&L Grooming continued his assault on wet shaver’s wallets by opening Declaration Brushworks (https://www.declarationbrushworks.com/), the premiere U.S. based artisan brush maker who hand ties every knot. L&L Grooming soaps are also available at Maggard Razors. Chatillon Lux is one of, if not the top aftershave artisan in the wet shaving world. Their collaborations are always successful and highly sought after. Bon Vivant is a warm and spicy blend with a crack of sharp citrus. The scent notes feature caramel, birch tar, black pepper, maple syrup, vanilla, patchouli, neroli, petitgrain, yuzu citrus, ginger, anise, juniper berry, white grapefruit, wormwood and coriander. What does all this boil down to? For me it opens with herbaceous citrus and some black pepper before the sweetness of the maple syrup and caramel enter the fold. At its base, it fades back to earthy where the patchouli, juniper berry and petitgrain present themselves. Scent is mid-strong both off the container and through the shave. Similar scents on the market include; Mickey Lee Soapworks Unforgiven or Phoenix & Beau Sanskrit. L&L Grooming’s Bison tallow soap base is among the very best performing soap bases on the market. Some have trouble dialing in the lather because it simply loves to be drowned with water. The results when dialed in though stand in the rare air of greatness though. Above average in all metrics. "Yogurty" dense cushion, hella slickness and residual slickness and spa like moisturizing post shave is what you can expect. With an ingredients like this (Stearic Acid, Water, Potassium Hydroxide, Avocado Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Bison Tallow, Mango Seed Butter, Castor Oil, Fragrance, Sodium Hydroxide, Lanolin, Bentonite Clay, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Extract, Salix Alba L. (White Willow) Bark Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid,) its no wonder. Similar soap bases in terms of performance are: Mickey Lee Soapworks and Tallow + Steel. Get at me here: Email: firstname.lastname@example.org YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/rudshones/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dendj55/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
I am fortunate to have been loaned a Declaration Grooming (https://www.declarationgrooming.com/) B5 knot mounted in a beautiful on off Theodore handle. Declaration Grooming as many know, makes shaving soap, aftershave, brush rejuvenator soap, brush handles and hand tied badger knots. Based in Morenci, Michigan, the company has become a go to for shaving accoutrements in our community and many consider them, the best soap base around. Their custom brushes and knotting services are highly sought after and are considered by many, the pinnacle of badger brushes. In this review, I compare this B5 knot to the recently reviewed Declaration B3 knot and B4 knot. B5 is a dense knot, to my eye, the knot packing is the same density as both the B3 and the B4. I feel like I am hitting my stride with these dense knots as lathering on my face has become easier as I have moved up the learning curve through repeated reviews and use. This B5 may hog lather for inexperienced users, but for me, I cannot say it is a lather hog. The backbone of this B5 knot is less stiff than the B4 by a small amount and much less stiff than the B3, which to date remains my preference in terms of backbone. The B5 has no scrubbiness to speak of, where as the B4 had very little and the B3 had a good bit of scrub to it. B5 is a luxurious knot that displays extremely soft, gel tips. Given my preference for a bit of scrub, I do wish the backbone was more prominent and as such this feels less luxurious to me than the B3 knot and on par with the B4. Given the softness and lack of scrub, I cannot see this knot irritating its users with any brush burn. Overall, the face feeling is like a cloud, very soft and a pleasure to feel against the skin while building your lather. Overall, this knot is an excellent choice for users who prefer an elegantly soft brush with the density to load and lather soap with little effort. While my preference still remains to the B3 knot for it’s additional scrub, I understand why many users rank this B5 knot among the best batch offerings from Delcaration to date. Get at me here: Email: email@example.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Eufros is an artisan based out of Spain, Barcelona to be precise. The proprietor, Manuel Garcia (a.k.a. JabonMan) has been making soap for several years now and it has been largely sold by word of mouth and via email. This has kept Eufros from becoming widely popular, but for many wet shaving hobbyists, this soap base is highly regarded and considered one of the best kept secrets in wet shaving. Fortunately for the masses, Eufros can now be purchased in the United States through West Coast Shaving (https://www.westcoastshaving.com/). Dama de Noche means night jasmine. This scent is a single note accord of the jasmine. The scent of jasmine is white floral as you’d expect but for a single note, it is deeply complex. The scent opens bright and floral, with the middle feeling green and the finish being smooth and earthy. This scent will certainly detract hobbyists who shy away from floral accords, but for anyone with a piquant for them, this scent will be in your wheelhouse. Scent strength is strong out of the tin and moves to mid-strong once lathered. Similar scents from the hobby are: Barrister & Mann Sinfonia and Dapper Dragon Jasmine & Vanilla. Eufros has both a vegan and tallow soap formula. This offering is in their Premium Tallow formula. The soap is is medium firm and loads without any extra effort. When properly dialed in, and this soap is thirsty, the lather resemble elmer’s glue. The slickness is very good, better primary slickness than residual, but neither lacks the necessary lubricity to do the job and do it well. Post shave is is very good also. Your skin is left soft and the feel is very nice. Given my experience with the performance of this soap, the shavescore is a 90. Soap based with a similar score are Tallow + Steel and Oleo Soapworks. Get at me here: Email: firstname.lastname@example.org YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Ruds-Shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
An overview of a wonderful house with roots in the wet shave community and geographically Saint Louis, MO.
Today’s shave features a “Showdown” between two premium priced, modern production, adjustable razors. The Rex Supply Co. Ambassador ((http://www.razoremporium.com/) and the Rockwell Model T ( (https://rockwellrazors.com/). I have reviewed each razor previously on their own merits (https://youtu.be/_QUziQwzdoI & https://youtu.be/a5HFcytVFdY), but because they are priced closely (USD $250 and USD $200 respectively) I wanted to provide a direct comparison shave. The Model T is made from a combination of Brass, Stainless Steel and Chromed Zinc Alloy. It is built well but does not feel as premium as the price tag demands. There are no visible tool marks or unfinished areas on this razor. The adjuster dial allows for shaves from 1 to 6 and I prefer setting 4. The size of this razor is a huge disappointment, it measures 4 1/4” and weighs 99 grams. The razor is extremely unbalance and too handle heavy as the hollow head assembly does not have enough weight to balance the razor. The domed head is enormous, bigger than the competing Ambassador razor, a vintage Gillette Slim adjustable and even the Gillette Fatboy. The butterfly head does not hold the DE blade as tight as a two or three piece DE and therefore blade chatter becomes an issue on settings over 4. Because of the imbalance and enormous head, there is a steep learning curve to this razor with regard to pressure, angle and technique. The Ambassador has many internal moving components, it is built to an amazing level of quality and tolerance. Made from 316L Stainless Steel with a brushed finish, and 100% Made in USA, this razor will last a lifetime. It even comes with a Lifetime warranty as the original owner and by registering the product on the website. Each razor carries an individual serial numbered and features a date code system, similar to the date code system used by Gillette. The knurling on the razor is deep and precise, but not so toothey that it is uncomfortable to hold. The weight and balance of this razor are ideal. Weighing in at 3.5oz (100g) and having a total length of 3.5" (87mm), the razor feels familiar in the hand from the first go. I have found that I prefer the number 4 setting (out of 6). The conclusion of this “Showdown” provides an obvious winner. The Rex Supply Co. Ambassador is leaps and bounds better than the Rockwell Model T in both craftsmanship, aesthetics and shaving experience. The only area in which the Rockwell Model T would be considered better would be in that it is less expensive. Both razors carry what I consider a premium razor price tag, but only the Ambassador delivers a premium shaving experience. Get at me here: Email: email@example.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Chatillon Lux (https://chatillonlux.com/) has teamed with Storybook Soapworks (https://storybooksoapworks.com/) to release a soap in the same scent as the recently released line of aftershave products, La Forêt de Liguest. This dynamic duo is also offering free shipping via a promo code received in email form from Storybook Soapworks once you’ve ordered the soap. The promo code entitles you to free shipping of a matching aftershave splash, toner or salve from Chatillon Lux.
La Forêt de Liguest is a fougere scent, billed as darker than Chatillon Lux’s TSM fougere. The scent is very complex and features notes of: cypress, juniper, coriander, atlas cedar, rose, tuberose, geranium, bergamot, vanilla, vetiver, benzoin, cedarwood, patchouli, musk, oakmoss and grapefruit. This is a deep fougere indeed. I am immediately met by the juniper and cypress, before the earthtones of cedarwood, oakmoss and vetiver join the fray. The florals and citrus round out this scent niceley and help to deliver on the promise of a darker fougere. The scent is mid-strong both off the puck and once lathered. Similar scents in the market are: The Los Angeles Shaving Soap Company Topanga Fougère or Ginger's Garden Fougère Fern.
Performance on Storybook Soapworks is very favorable, considering the company’s fledgling status. The soap is soft, so overloading can be an issue if you aren’t paying attention. It loads easily into the brush and enjoys water, this soap is thirsty. The resulting lather, from a properly hydrated soap is both cushiony and slick. This soap has no problems playing in the current artisan space. The post shave is also on par with soaps that we all know and use. This is likely due to the nice list of ingredients used; Stearic Acid, Water, Beef Tallow, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Fragrance, Shea Butter, Vegetable Glycerin, Rice Bran Oil, Avocado Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol. To find a soap that performs similarly, I’d suggest checking out Bufflehead Soap Co. or Turtleship Shave Co.
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