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This soap review features the 2016 artisan rookie of the year, L&L Grooming (https://www.landlgrooming.com/) and killer post shave master, Chatillon Lux (https://chatillonlux.com/). Even with the honors of being the best new artisan on the scene in 2016, Scott, from L&L Grooming continued his assault on wet shaver’s wallets by opening Declaration Brushworks (https://www.declarationbrushworks.com/), the premiere U.S. based artisan brush maker who hand ties every knot. L&L Grooming soaps are also available at Maggard Razors. Chatillon Lux is one of, if not the top aftershave artisan in the wet shaving world. Their collaborations are always successful and highly sought after. Bon Vivant is a warm and spicy blend with a crack of sharp citrus. The scent notes feature caramel, birch tar, black pepper, maple syrup, vanilla, patchouli, neroli, petitgrain, yuzu citrus, ginger, anise, juniper berry, white grapefruit, wormwood and coriander. What does all this boil down to? For me it opens with herbaceous citrus and some black pepper before the sweetness of the maple syrup and caramel enter the fold. At its base, it fades back to earthy where the patchouli, juniper berry and petitgrain present themselves. Scent is mid-strong both off the container and through the shave. Similar scents on the market include; Mickey Lee Soapworks Unforgiven or Phoenix & Beau Sanskrit. L&L Grooming’s Bison tallow soap base is among the very best performing soap bases on the market. Some have trouble dialing in the lather because it simply loves to be drowned with water. The results when dialed in though stand in the rare air of greatness though. Above average in all metrics. "Yogurty" dense cushion, hella slickness and residual slickness and spa like moisturizing post shave is what you can expect. With an ingredients like this (Stearic Acid, Water, Potassium Hydroxide, Avocado Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Bison Tallow, Mango Seed Butter, Castor Oil, Fragrance, Sodium Hydroxide, Lanolin, Bentonite Clay, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Extract, Salix Alba L. (White Willow) Bark Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid,) its no wonder. Similar soap bases in terms of performance are: Mickey Lee Soapworks and Tallow + Steel. Get at me here: Email: email@example.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/rudshones/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dendj55/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Jeeves of Hudson Street (https://www.jeevessoaps.com/) is a veteran owned artisan soap maker based out of Buckner, Missouri. Jeeves specializes in small batch shaving soap and aftershave. If you are local, Jeeves can also be procured from Just For Him (http://www.jfhgiftshop.com/) located in Springfield, Missouri (1334 E. Battlefield Springfield, MO 65804). They offer a custom Jeeves soap called Black Tea, which I have reviewed in the past (https://youtu.be/qY2J-gszIXU). Abyss is Jeeves latest scent offering in his lineup and is a beautiful blend of rose and dark chocolate. I have recently found an olfactory revolution where rose is now pleasing to my nose. Abyss, while dominated by the soft rose and creamy dark chocolate. The accord is complemented by vanilla, patchouli, oud, saffron, truffle and moss as well. The scent is rich and dark, and not overly floral. It is quite masculine given the scent notes. Scent strength is mid-strong off the jar and remains this way through the shave. Similar scents in the wet shaving microcosm are: Soap Smooth Rose Cocoa and Catie's Bubbles A Midnight Dreary. The performance delivered by Jeeves of Hudson Street was quite a surprise. Consisting of: Water, Stearic Acid, Tallow, Babassu Oil, Cocoa Butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Fragrance Oil / Essential Oil, and Glycerin, the soap loads easily and begins producing lather with little water and agitation. The cushion and density of the lather is good. The slickness and residual slickness are also good. The post shave feel is great and knocks on the door of tier 1 for the metric. The resulting shavescore this soap base yields is an 87. This puts this soap base in the class of others like, Phoenix & Beau or Through the Fire Fine Craft. Get at me here: Email: firstname.lastname@example.org YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
As requested, here is my awards for 2017. Thanks to all of the vendors, artisans and hobbyists that make this community and hobby so rewarding. Mentions: Abbate Y La Mantia - http://abbateylamantia.it/en/ Australian Private Reserve - https://australianprivatereserve.com/ Barrister & Mann - https://www.barristerandmann.com/ Catie’s Bubbles - http://www.catiesbubbles.com/ Chatillon Lux - https://chatillonlux.com/ Chiseled Face Groomatorium - http://www.chiseledface.com/ Cooper & French - https://shop.cooperandfrench.com/ Declaration Grooming - https://www.declarationgrooming.com/ Dr. Jon’s - https://www.drjonshandcraftedsoapco.com/ Eufros - Groomatorium Inc. - https://www.groomatorium.com/ Grooming Dept - https://www.groomingdept.com/ Italian Barber - https://www.italianbarber.com/ LowBorn Supply - https://www.etsy.com/shop/LowbornSupply Maggard Razors - http://www.maggardrazors.com/ Mickey Lee Soapworks - http://mickeyleesoapworks.com/ Mozingo Brushworks - https://www.etsy.com/shop/MozingoBrushworks Oleo Soapworks - http://oleosoapworks.com/ Paradigm Razors - http://paradigmshaveware.com/ Phoenix & Beau - https://www.phoenixandbeau.uk/ Soap Commander - https://soapcommander.com/ Stirling Soap Co. - https://www.stirlingsoap.com/ Storybook Soapworks - https://storybooksoapworks.com/ Talbot Shaving - https://www.etsy.com/shop/TalbotShaving Tallow + Steel - https://tallowandsthttps://www.etsy.com/shop/TurnNShaveeel.com/ ThatDarnRob - https://www.etsy.com/shop/ThatDarnRob the Club - https://shavingshopclub.com/ Turn.N.Shave - https://www.etsy.com/shop/TurnNShave Wholly Kaw - https://whollykaw.com/ Wickham Soap Co. - https://w-soap.co.uk/ Wild West Brushworks - https://www.etsy.com/shop/WildWestBrushworks Wolf Whiskers - http://www.wolfwhiskers.com/ Get at me here: Email: email@example.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Thank you guys for watching. I hope you found something you enjoyed. If you have any questions or comments please feel free to leave them down below. You can also contact me by email or social media Thanks Gilbert email: firstname.lastname@example.org Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/secondkindofcool/ Instagram: https://www.Instagram.com/secondkindofcool/ Milton Turn N Shave https://www.etsy.com/shop/TurnNShave https://www.etsy.com/shop/TurnNShave Shavette World Facebook group https://m.facebook.com/groups/543973739105253
Wholly Kaw (https://whollykaw.com/) collaborated in 2017 with Chatillon Lux to make a limited edition soap in one of Chatillon Lux’s most loved scents, Yuzu Rose Patchouli (YRP). The previous LE of this scent was produced by top Canadian artisan, Tallow + Steel. Wholly Kaw’s donkey milk base was used for this LE soap and as expected it sold fast and the quantity produced could not meet the demand. Wholly Kaw makes artisan soap, aftershave (alcohol based, toner and balm), deodorant, beard care and fragrances. They are available at third party re-sellers in the U.S. such as Maggard Razors (http://www.maggardrazors.com/). YRP is a stunning yet simplistic three note accord. As one can garner from the name alone, yuzu, rose and patchouli have been blended into this scent. To my nose, it opens with a citrusy pop from the yuzu before being met by the soft floral rose, which is then grounded by the earthy and dry patchouli. This scent is not for everyone and each note has its detractors, but for me this one is a winning smell. It reminds me of a garden where plants and fruits grow and co-exist. In reading Chatillon Lux’s description, I believe that was their aim and they executed it to perfection. The scent strength is strong out of the soap container but slides to mid-strong once lathered. The closest comparable scents I can offer would be Grooming Dept Yuzu or Through the Fire Fine Craft Quench. Wholly Kaw’s donkey milk formula is a gold standard soap. This soap excels in the areas of slickness and post shave. The cushion and lather density is great and resembles cool whip when properly lathered. It easily loads into various knot types and begins making a rich creamy lather that has slickness to rival the best. The post shave, purportedly because of the donkey milk, is at the very pinnacle of post shave feels. My skin is left supple and soft. The ingredients list is; Vegetable Stearic Acid, Beef Tallow, Donkey Milk, Distilled Water, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Kokum Butter, Cocoa Butter, Glycerin, Shea Butter, Lanolin, Essential Oils, Fragrance Oils. The overall shavescore for this soap base is a 95. For soap bases with similar performance, my suggestions are Catie’s Bubbles, Declaration Grooming and Ariana & Evans. Get at me here: Email: email@example.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Chatillon Lux (https://chatillonlux.com/) has teamed with Storybook Soapworks (https://storybooksoapworks.com/) to release a soap in the same scent as the recently released line of aftershave products, La Forêt de Liguest. This dynamic duo is also offering free shipping via a promo code received in email form from Storybook Soapworks once you’ve ordered the soap. The promo code entitles you to free shipping of a matching aftershave splash, toner or salve from Chatillon Lux.
La Forêt de Liguest is a fougere scent, billed as darker than Chatillon Lux’s TSM fougere. The scent is very complex and features notes of: cypress, juniper, coriander, atlas cedar, rose, tuberose, geranium, bergamot, vanilla, vetiver, benzoin, cedarwood, patchouli, musk, oakmoss and grapefruit. This is a deep fougere indeed. I am immediately met by the juniper and cypress, before the earthtones of cedarwood, oakmoss and vetiver join the fray. The florals and citrus round out this scent niceley and help to deliver on the promise of a darker fougere. The scent is mid-strong both off the puck and once lathered. Similar scents in the market are: The Los Angeles Shaving Soap Company Topanga Fougère or Ginger's Garden Fougère Fern.
Performance on Storybook Soapworks is very favorable, considering the company’s fledgling status. The soap is soft, so overloading can be an issue if you aren’t paying attention. It loads easily into the brush and enjoys water, this soap is thirsty. The resulting lather, from a properly hydrated soap is both cushiony and slick. This soap has no problems playing in the current artisan space. The post shave is also on par with soaps that we all know and use. This is likely due to the nice list of ingredients used; Stearic Acid, Water, Beef Tallow, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Fragrance, Shea Butter, Vegetable Glycerin, Rice Bran Oil, Avocado Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol. To find a soap that performs similarly, I’d suggest checking out Bufflehead Soap Co. or Turtleship Shave Co.
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