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This soap review features the 2016 artisan rookie of the year, L&L Grooming (https://www.landlgrooming.com/) and killer post shave master, Chatillon Lux (https://chatillonlux.com/). Even with the honors of being the best new artisan on the scene in 2016, Scott, from L&L Grooming continued his assault on wet shaver’s wallets by opening Declaration Brushworks (https://www.declarationbrushworks.com/), the premiere U.S. based artisan brush maker who hand ties every knot. L&L Grooming soaps are also available at Maggard Razors. Chatillon Lux is one of, if not the top aftershave artisan in the wet shaving world. Their collaborations are always successful and highly sought after. Bon Vivant is a warm and spicy blend with a crack of sharp citrus. The scent notes feature caramel, birch tar, black pepper, maple syrup, vanilla, patchouli, neroli, petitgrain, yuzu citrus, ginger, anise, juniper berry, white grapefruit, wormwood and coriander. What does all this boil down to? For me it opens with herbaceous citrus and some black pepper before the sweetness of the maple syrup and caramel enter the fold. At its base, it fades back to earthy where the patchouli, juniper berry and petitgrain present themselves. Scent is mid-strong both off the container and through the shave. Similar scents on the market include; Mickey Lee Soapworks Unforgiven or Phoenix & Beau Sanskrit. L&L Grooming’s Bison tallow soap base is among the very best performing soap bases on the market. Some have trouble dialing in the lather because it simply loves to be drowned with water. The results when dialed in though stand in the rare air of greatness though. Above average in all metrics. "Yogurty" dense cushion, hella slickness and residual slickness and spa like moisturizing post shave is what you can expect. With an ingredients like this (Stearic Acid, Water, Potassium Hydroxide, Avocado Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Bison Tallow, Mango Seed Butter, Castor Oil, Fragrance, Sodium Hydroxide, Lanolin, Bentonite Clay, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Extract, Salix Alba L. (White Willow) Bark Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid,) its no wonder. Similar soap bases in terms of performance are: Mickey Lee Soapworks and Tallow + Steel. Get at me here: Email: firstname.lastname@example.org YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/rudshones/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dendj55/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements (https://phoenixartisanaccoutrements.com/) released a new “Premium Line” of shaving soap known as Doppelgänger. The formula upgrade was born of a pet project that PAA has outside of the business. According to the write up on the site, the artisan’s tinker with soap in their free time as a hobby and they decided to challenge themselves by dispelling “The Tallow is Superior Myth”. They have sourced and added several exotic butters to attempt this challenge. The Doppelgänger Collection is their entry into cloning popular fragrances, much like other artisans have been doing. This new Premium Line retails for $24.95 for a 5oz soap. Doppelgänger Black Label is a clone of the widely popular men’s fragrance, Christian Dior's Sauvage. The scent is described as “Fresh, Amber, Spicy and Warm. Aromatic with a hint of citrus, spicy warm, and ultra-masculine.” It features notes of: Bergamot, Ambroxan, Geranium, Pepper, Lavender, Vetiver and Patchouli. This scent is wonderful and I get why so many people enjoy this men’s cologne. As with nearly all PAA soaps, scent is strong off the container and remains strong once lathered. Similar scents from wet shaving are: Ariana & Evans Monte Carlo and Oleo Soapworks Empire. The new base is known as CK-6 in the wet shaving community and according to the website features the addition of Bacuri Butter, Cupuacu Butter and Murumuru Butter. Overall the ingredients are listed as: Potassium Stearate, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoate, Aqua, Potassium Kokumate, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Shea Butterate, Potassium Castorate, Sodium Stearate, Potassium Cocoa Butterate, Potassium Avocadoate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum (Capuacu) Butter, Astrocaryum (Murumuru) Seed Butter, Platonia Insignis (Bacuri) Seed Butter, Parfum [Fragrance]. The soap is soft and care needs to be taken to not overload your brush because it is also insanely thirsty. The lather explodes with water and when properly dialed in resembles Cool Whip. Slickness is improved, both primary and residual aspects are noticeably better than the regular PAA soap base. Post shave also improves upon the regular PAA base. This soap delivers on it’s promise to bridge the tallow gap, much like Catie’s Bubbles, Wholly Kaw and Grooming Dept have previously done. Considering the improvements, the shavescore for the CK-6 soap base is a 92. Soaps with a similar overall performance are: Wholly Kaw vegan and Noble Otter. Get at me here: Email: email@example.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Ruds-Shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Today's Shave of the Day featured: Soap: Declaration Grooming/Chatillon Lux - Vide Poche (Limited Edition) Brush: Vintage Ever-Ready 300 NW w/ 24mm Maggard 2-band Finest Knot Razor: Charcoal Goods Lvl-1 DC w/ Stinger Handle Blade: Astra Superior Stainless (1) Post-shave: Chatillon Lux Vide Poche Declaration Grooming and Chatillon Lux have forged a collaboration unlike any other that we've seen in the community. Combining unique, elegant scents and joining them with a soap base that competes with just about any in the community. This Limited Edition release of an old classic, Vide Poche, sold out in just a few days. This newest offering is in the Icarus base, which for me, personally, exceeds its predecessor base of Bison tallow. I find this base to edge out Bison tallow alone in slickness and post-shave feel. Some may disagree but Icarus has become on of my favorite bases. Vide Poche contains scent notes of amber, orange, geranium, honeysuckle, lavender, and bergamot. To my nose, this starts out primarily on the floral side with the honeysuckle, geranium, lavender, and bergamot up front. This floral aspect is pleasantly rounded out with a subtle citrus hit of orange and amber. Absolutely wonderful scent. If you can get your hands on this, you won't regret it. Links to the artisans behind the items used today can be found below: Declaration Grooming (https://www.declarationgrooming.com) Charcoal Goods (https://charcoalgoods.com) Chatillon Lux (https://chatillonlux.com) Reyes Restorations - JR Reyes (https://www.instagram.com/reyes_restores) Social Media: Instagram: nova_shaves
Today, I have the privilege to review a brand new artisan company, Storybook Soapworks (http://storybooksoapworks.com/), and their initial soap offering - Elysium. I was turned onto Storybook Soapworks during one of my daily visits to r/Wetshaving (https://www.reddit.com/r/Wetshaving). The company’s owner, /u/Fahrenheit915 had offered samples to some of the members and the reviews that were coming in were very positive. I reached out privately and expressed my interest in buying soap as soon as the company was ready to sell. Storybook Soapworks Elysium is a blend of lavender, vanilla, and peppermint, sandalwood, cedarwood, and amyris. For me, someone who is very sensitive to the smell of mints, and peppermint in general, the scent is not a must have for me. The scent reminds me very much of a Mentos candy. Regardless of my opinion on the scent, which is subjective, this scent is well executed, in fact, better than I would expect for a new artisan and a first soap offering. Scent is mid-strong both out of the container and once lathered. Similar scents to this offering are The Holy Black - Goldrush and Reef Point Soaps - Tranquility. Performance on Storybook Soapworks Elysium is very favorable, considering the company’s rookie status. The soap is soft, so overloading can be an issue if you aren’t paying attention. It loads easily into the brush and enjoys water, this soap is thirsty. The resulting lather, from a properly hydrated soap is both cushiony and slick. This soap has no problems playing in the current artisan space. The post shave is also on par with soaps that we all know and use. This is likely due to the nice list of ingredients used; Stearic Acid, Water, Beef Tallow, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Fragrance, Shea Butter, Vegetable Glycerin, Rice Bran Oil, Avocado Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol. To find a soap that performs similarly, I’d suggest checking out Chiseled Face Groomatorium or Turtleship Shave Co. Get at me here: Email: firstname.lastname@example.org YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/rudshones/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dendj55/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Oleo Soapworks (http://oleosoapworks.com/) is based out of Chicago, IL and offers shaving soap, aftershave splash, aftershave balm, and bath soap. They are also known for their collaboration with West Coast Shaving in that they make the WCS house brand tallow soap as well as aftershaves. Recently, Oleo made the move to direct all sales away from their own ecommerce platform and solely to third party reseller. As such, Oleo Soapworks is available for purchase at Maggard Razors (http://www.maggardrazors.com/) and West Coast Shaving (https://www.westcoastshaving.com/). Don Luis is a blend of citrus, woods, sage and sea salt. The scent is mostly earthy and features specific notes of: Grapefruit, Sea Salt, Seaweed, Sage, Ambrette, Musk. Off the container it opens with a citrus top that is quickly complimented by the sage, ambretter and musk. The sea salt and seaweed envelope the scent, adding a distinct “marshy-ness” to the accord. I foresee this as a love it or leave it scent for the masses. For me, this scent is not a keeper, but I can appreciate the blend and it’s intent. Scent strength off the container is mid and the scent remains mid strength once lathered. Similar soap scents in wet shaving are: Ginger's Garden Luna and Art of Shaving Ocean Kelp. Oleo’s duck fat base is known as Canard and is now the standard base offering for the brand. This base is very easy to load and it enjoys quite a bit of water to get it dialed in. The lather is of the consistency of sour cream, with considerable sheen and a nice weight to it. It is slick with a nice residual slickness, although just shy of elite level status. The post shave is a star in with this base. Skin feeling is silky and luxurious. This base is excellent. If I were to compare it to the other two known duck fat bases, I would say it performs better than Bufflehead in all aspects and comes up short in comparison to Grooming Dept Mallard in terms of slickness. The resulting shavescore is 91 which groups with Tallow + Steel (2017) and Noble Otter. Get at me here: Email: email@example.com YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/dendj55/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ruds_shaves Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Ruds-Shaves Twitter: https://twitter.com/ruds_shaves Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/user/dendj55 Snapchat: @ruds_shaves
Chatillon Lux (https://chatillonlux.com/) has teamed with Storybook Soapworks (https://storybooksoapworks.com/) to release a soap in the same scent as the recently released line of aftershave products, La Forêt de Liguest. This dynamic duo is also offering free shipping via a promo code received in email form from Storybook Soapworks once you’ve ordered the soap. The promo code entitles you to free shipping of a matching aftershave splash, toner or salve from Chatillon Lux.
La Forêt de Liguest is a fougere scent, billed as darker than Chatillon Lux’s TSM fougere. The scent is very complex and features notes of: cypress, juniper, coriander, atlas cedar, rose, tuberose, geranium, bergamot, vanilla, vetiver, benzoin, cedarwood, patchouli, musk, oakmoss and grapefruit. This is a deep fougere indeed. I am immediately met by the juniper and cypress, before the earthtones of cedarwood, oakmoss and vetiver join the fray. The florals and citrus round out this scent niceley and help to deliver on the promise of a darker fougere. The scent is mid-strong both off the puck and once lathered. Similar scents in the market are: The Los Angeles Shaving Soap Company Topanga Fougère or Ginger's Garden Fougère Fern.
Performance on Storybook Soapworks is very favorable, considering the company’s fledgling status. The soap is soft, so overloading can be an issue if you aren’t paying attention. It loads easily into the brush and enjoys water, this soap is thirsty. The resulting lather, from a properly hydrated soap is both cushiony and slick. This soap has no problems playing in the current artisan space. The post shave is also on par with soaps that we all know and use. This is likely due to the nice list of ingredients used; Stearic Acid, Water, Beef Tallow, Potassium Hydroxide, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Fragrance, Shea Butter, Vegetable Glycerin, Rice Bran Oil, Avocado Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol. To find a soap that performs similarly, I’d suggest checking out Bufflehead Soap Co. or Turtleship Shave Co.
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